Storing kitchen knives is a perpetual problem. Hence why I created this Knife Block. Some people buy them one by one, and when not in use, the knives jangle inside a drawer getting dull and nicked.
Other people store an enormous set of nine or ten kitchen knives, six steak knives, scissors, and a sharpening steel in a huge angled knife block on the countertop.
The angled block takes up valuable countertop real-estate even though only six or seven knives are regularly used. I am sure you know people like this (maybe you’re even one of them!).
My upright design takes up less countertop space and shows off the natural beauty of dark walnut wood.
The design is really simple: four vertical boards separated by ten strategically placed dividers.
The dividers are shorter than the verticals so there is room to facilitate evaporation in case a knife is inserted wet after washing.
It would be easy to make three or four of these in an afternoon, reserving an additional afternoon for finishing.
A mind all logic is like a knife all blade.
It makes the hand bleed that uses it.
— Rabindranath Tagore
Check out exactly how I did it and good luck making your own succulent planter.
- (1) 4×4
- (1) 5/16 Dowel
- (x) Sanding Paper 60-220 Grit
- (x) Rag or Stain/Foam Brush
- (1) Minwax Polycrylic
- (1) L-Bracket (Optional)
- – Cordless Drilll or Drill Press
- – Circular Saw or Miter Saw
- – Orbital Sander
- – 10″ 5/16 Drill Bit
- – 2″ Forstner Bit
- (1) 14″ 4×4 (Length can be custom)
- (3) 2″ Diameter Holes (can be custom depending on length of your 4×4 cut)
- Make your cuts – Cut a 14” long piece of 4×4. It’s easiest to do this with a compound miter saw. You can aslo cut it with a circular saw, but you’ll have to make two cuts since it’s thick.
- Drilling the Housing – I drilled three evenly spaced 2” diameter holes using a Forstner drill bit. Forstner bits are perfect for this application since they leave flat bottom holes and come in large diameters. When drilling large diameter holes, there’s a lot of torque on the drill and your wrists, so it’s a good idea to firmly clamp the piece you’re drilling to a work surface so that you can have both hands on the drill. I drilled the holes 2.5” deep.
- Drain Hole – I used my extra long 1/4″ diameter drill bit to drill one long hole through the side of the planters and connected the bottoms of the three 2” diameter holes. This hole will let the planters drain
- Sanding – Use an orbital sander to sand the planter smooth and round over the edges. I started with 60 grit pads and finished with 220 grit.
- Seal the Wood. – I brushed a coat of Minwax Polycrylic onto the 4×4 to seal it.
- The Plug – I carved the end of the 5/16” diameter dowel into a tapered plug to fit in the drainage hole. Then I cut off an end of the dowel to make a plug about 1” long. I stuck the plug in and tested the planter by pouring water into it.
- Placement – I placed three small succulents on a shelf, but you can use the L-brackets to mount it on a wall.
Lessons Learned: Make sure you have a long drill bit that will reach the 3rd housing. Also make sure that the drill bit you use is one fraction smaller than the dowell size desired.