Figuring out how to store wine in our house was a tricky ordeal. We wanted to make our bottles accessible but we also wanted to protect them. We’re not lucky enough to have a dedicated wine cellar or fridge, so I made it my mission to put together a good DIY wine rack in our kitchen. Upon scouring the internet I remembered that April had made an awesome wine rack a few years back.
Her plans are very easy to follow and so simple to build that you’ll wonder why you didn’t think of it.
As I was building this, one of my colleagues at work was going to have her birthday. She is a very special person to me and has helped me at my work every step of the way.
She’s and avid quilter and wine is the best companion when quilting. So I thought this was going to be a perfect gift for her.
Paul, from Wood Theory Design, had given me some African Padauk scraps and I figured it would be a perfect material for this build. I believe it came our great, the natural red makes it pop that is mesmerizing.
Check it out how I built this. It’s time to get those bottles of wine out of their dusty boxes and displayed in the house… because let’s face it…. wine must be accessible at all times.
Can we really have too many shelves?
The interesting thing about these shelves is the flexibility that we have to use any material, any length and any stain.
“Wine is the answer. What was the question again?”
You can use this technique build small shelves in the bathroom or huge ones for you dinning room.
- (1) 4×4
- (1) 5/16 Dowel
- (x) Sanding Paper 60-220 Grit
- (x) Rag or Stain/Foam Brush
- (1) Minwax Polycrylic
- (1) L-Bracket (Optional)
- – Cordless Drilll or Drill Press
- – Circular Saw or Miter Saw
- – Orbital Sander
- – 10″ 5/16 Drill Bit
- – 2″ Forstner Bit
- (1) 14″ 4×4 (Length can be custom)
- (3) 2″ Diameter Holes (can be custom depending on length of your 4×4 cut)
- Make your cuts – Cut a 14” long piece of 4×4. It’s easiest to do this with a compound miter saw. You can aslo cut it with a circular saw, but you’ll have to make two cuts since it’s thick.
- Drilling the Housing – I drilled three evenly spaced 2” diameter holes using a Forstner drill bit. Forstner bits are perfect for this application since they leave flat bottom holes and come in large diameters. When drilling large diameter holes, there’s a lot of torque on the drill and your wrists, so it’s a good idea to firmly clamp the piece you’re drilling to a work surface so that you can have both hands on the drill. I drilled the holes 2.5” deep.
- Drain Hole – I used my extra long 1/4″ diameter drill bit to drill one long hole through the side of the planters and connected the bottoms of the three 2” diameter holes. This hole will let the planters drain
- Sanding – Use an orbital sander to sand the planter smooth and round over the edges. I started with 60 grit pads and finished with 220 grit.
- Seal the Wood. – I brushed a coat of Minwax Polycrylic onto the 4×4 to seal it.
- The Plug – I carved the end of the 5/16” diameter dowel into a tapered plug to fit in the drainage hole. Then I cut off an end of the dowel to make a plug about 1” long. I stuck the plug in and tested the planter by pouring water into it.
- Placement – I placed three small succulents on a shelf, but you can use the L-brackets to mount it on a wall.
Lessons Learned: Make sure you have a long drill bit that will reach the 3rd housing. Also make sure that the drill bit you use is one fraction smaller than the dowell size desired.